Today I’m very excited to announce the launch of the Nita Wrap Skirt pattern. It is a fitted wrap skirt that sits at the natural waist with a sassy angled front, three length options and three waistband closure options. The pattern features waist darts, a built in front facing and optional lining. Make the mini length in denim or corduroy for a fun, casual look. Or, pair a neutral twill fabric with the midi-length for a sophisticated look that will take you from the office to happy hour in style.

This pattern is more challenging than my other two patterns, the Lou Box Top and Baseball Skirt, in that it may require more fitting. But it’s not too hard for an adventurous beginner to tackle. In fact, over 75% of my testers rated it as a “very easy” pattern. I’m easily able to sew this skirt in just a few hours. More than once, I have sewn one during the day and worn it out that same night. Can we hear three cheers for instant gratification? 

This is a pdf pattern that includes illustrated instructions, a print-at-home pdf pattern, a copy shop pdf pattern and an A0 size pdf pattern. There are also instructions for adding a lining to your skirt. The pattern is available in sizes 00-22 (check out the size chart on the pattern page for details). 

For a limited time, you can get 20% off the pattern using the promo code NITAWRAPLAUNCH20. The code will expire March 28, at midnight Pacific time. 

P.S. I want to give a big thank you to everyone that tested the pattern for me. I truly appreciate it. If you’re on Instagram you may have seen a photo or two. Just check out the #nitawrapskirt hashtag for an insane amount of skirt eye-candy. If you make one yourself and share on social media, make sure to use the hashtag and tag me. I'd love to see what you make!

I had a great group of pattern testers that very graciously took the time to sew the pattern, send me feedback and photos! Seeing their creations roll into my inbox was exciting and overwhelming. They did a fabulous job and really motivated me to get to work and release this pattern so that everyone can have it in time for spring. These photos provide some great inspiration for kinds of fabric you can use and give you glimpse into how the skirt looks on different body shapes. 

Above, clockwise from top left: Marie-Fleurine from Sew Marie Fleur  //  Sara from The Sara Project //  Erin from The Recycled Library //  Lizzy from Song of the Stitch

"I love the Nita Wrap Skirt! It's a quick sew, and the directions are very clear. I love the look of wrap skirts, and they are so huge for spring this year. Such a fresh and easy pattern that everyone needs to add to their spring sewing list!" – Sara

Clockwise from top left: Ariana from Live Love Sew //  Adriene from Elle Lee and Me  //  Sylvia from The Ravelout  //  Elizabeth from Adhoc Sleepwear

"I really like the Nita Skirt Pattern. It was so easy and fast to sew with amazingly clear directions.  The skirt is really versatile and the three lengths work for everyone. I made the mini but really want to try the maxi for winter with my favorite boots." – Ariana

Clockwise from top left: Julianna from Equal Opportunity Crafter  //  Angela from Tinker And Stitcher //  Andrea from Create Hobby  //  Ana from Que Puedo Hacer Conesto

Clockwise from top left: Chuleenan from Csews  //  Chloe from Chloe Skye Delaney //  Deanne from Annie & Dot  //  Claire from Life on Wallace

"The Nita Wrap Skirt was an easy, fun, and versatile pattern—one of those projects that immediately fits into your wardrobe. Not only was it a simple and satisfying skirt to make, I can see myself wearing it all the time! I will be making more of these." – Chloe

Clockwise from top left: Shauni from The Magnificent Thread  //  Eveline from Frolein Tilia  //  Fiona from Fiona Makes  //  Faby from Fab Handmade

From top left: Helen from Helen's Closet //  Helene from 25 Reasons //  Jenny from The Wardrobe Architect  //  Jennifer from Red Seiber

Clockwise from top left:  Kristi from Delightfully Kristi  //  Mady from The Wardrobe Project  //  Kylie //  Meg from Cookin and Craftin

"The Nita Wrap Skirt was a breeze to sew and I am so pleased with how my skirt turned out! I love the versatile pattern and could happily sew up more versions in different fabrics. The variety in lengths and finishing options and the small yardage required makes it the perfect pattern for sewing up pieces to fit every part of your wardrobe, from work to play and everything in between!" - Kristi

A couple of fun facts from testing: 78% of testers rated the Nita Wrap Skirt as a "Very Easy" pattern. 90% of testers would recommend the pattern to a friend. I want to give another BIG THANK YOU to everyone who took the time to test the pattern for me. I truly appreciate it.

P.S. For a limited time, you can get 20% off the pattern using the promo code NITAWRAPLAUNCH20. The code will expire March 28, at midnight Pacific time. 

Clockwise from top left: A Pair & A Spare  //  9 to 5 Chic  //  Hello Fashion Blog  //  Snapped

Hi sewing friends! I've been really thrilled with the positive response to my latest PDF sewing pattern, the Nita Wrap Skirt. As is often the case, this design was inspired by RTW. Naturally, I put my own spin on it, creating a design that easily spans three lengths and is super simple to put together. The great thing about using RTW as inspiration is that you can see how to style the skirt and consider which style works for you. RTW can also give great ideas for different kinds of fabric you can use. For example, in our above inspiration photos, there's leather, corduroy, twill and suede. All of these fabrics are a of medium weight which I think helps the skirt hang straight and prevents it from flipping around (as we know wrap skirts are prone to do).

Clockwise from top left: Reformation  //  Style du Monde  //  Anthropologie  //  Asos

The above examples provide some great ideas for how to style the skirt. You can pair it with a crop top, a loose fitting blouse, a boxy top (maybe a Lou Box Top :) or a fitted turtleneck. You can also see how the design can go from dressy to casual depending on the fabric. The brocade like fabric in the bottom left is topped off with a tie belt and platform heels for an evening look while the bottom right, in light denim shows how to put together a weekend-casual look. 

I'm working on some ideas for patterns to pair with this skirt as well as a sewalong full of photos. In the meantime, check out my roundup of tester versions of the skirt. And get your own copy of the pattern right here. Happy sewing!

Separates are great wardrobe builders because you can mix and match with your other pieces but sometimes it can be hard to figure out exactly which pieces to pair a new item with. So today I’m sharing a few pattern pairings ideas for the Nita Wrap Skirt. This skirt looks best with a tucked in shirt or cropped top so that you can show off the fitted waistband. You can go for a skin-tight bodysuit or tuck in a looser fitting top that slightly hangs over the waistband.

Five Patterns to Pair with the Nita Wrap Skirt

1. Ella Top by Liola Patterns
I made an Ella Top last year and have been meaning to do it again ever since. It’s very simple but has a lovely back yoke and pleat detail. I’m wearing my Ella Top with a denim mini Nita Wrap Skirt in these photos. It looks best tucked in with just a little flounce at the waistband.

2. Lark Tee by Grainline Studio
The easiest way, most casual to wear the Nita Wrap Skirt is with a basic t-shirt, like the Lark Tee. Just tuck in your tee, throw on some sneakers or sandals and you're ready to go.

3. Astoria Sweater by Seamwork Magazine
This vintage-style sweater has a beautiful narrow waist that will pair beautifully with the Nita Wrap Skirt. It’s a great option if you’re looking for something with longer sleeves or want to use a knit fabric.

4. Nettie Bodysuit by Closet Case Files
I’m a big fan of this pattern and love to pair it with Nita Wrap Skirt. It’s just the best way to show off the waistband and you never have to worry about keeping it tucked in.

5. Simplicity 1366
This basic cropped top is another great pairing option (here's mine). It works with a length hitting right at or just below the waistband. Other cropped shirt options are the Inari Tee from Named Patterns (see mine here) and the Hayden Top from Seamwork.

For more Nita Wrap Skirt styling ideas, check out the Pattern Tester Roundup and this RTW inspiration post. Then head over to the shop and pick up your own copy of the Nita Wrap Skirt. It's a really easy pattern to sew that will have you kicking of spring in style. 

I’m thinking about making Pattern Pairings a regular column/recurring post theme. Is that something you’d be interested in? There’s really nothing better than donning an entire outfit that you’ve made yourself. So why not plan ahead for how you can match one pattern with another? Do you have other pattern pairing ideas? Or maybe requests? Let me know in the comments.

Before the Nettie bodysuit pattern by Closet Case Files, I really had no idea how much I needed a bodysuit (actually multiple bodysuits) in my wardrobe. It’s an ideal bottom layer to wear with pants or skirts. The trim silhouette just can’t be beat. It’s great for showing off a waistband and a waistline for that matter. I think a bodysuit would also be great for layering. I don’t need too many layers in LA but I can imagine it being a great winter base layer, minimal bulk but extra core warmth.

My last couple of Nettie's (here and here) have been a little loose at the waist so I adjusted the size by grading down at the waist and hips to between a 10 and 12. The tricky thing with knit fabric is that there are different amounts of stretch. So while the last Netties felt looser this fabric feels a lot more snug. The fit is pretty good now and I’ll continue to use this modification for future bodysuits.

I made this bodysuit a few months ago and can’t remember where I bought the fabric. Perhaps at Joann’s? It’s a basic 4-way stretch. Not too thin. Not too thick. Sometimes, it feels like it's hardest to find the most basic fabric. Like fleece back sweatshirt fabric. How is not in every color, in every store?

Here, I’m wearing the bodysuit with a mini Nita Wrap Skirt made from brown corduroy. I’d had the corduroy in my stash for years and I’m so glad that I used it for this skirt. The length and the fabric have a 70s vibe that I really love. I can totally picture Ali McGraw wearing this skirt with a turtleneck, tights and boots. A few of my pattern testers also made the Nita Wrap Skirt in corduroy and I have a feeling that this fabric is making a comeback. Which gets me thinking, I’d love to have a pair of flared corduroy pants. How awesome would that be?

I took these photos way back at the beginning of February and it's taken me this long to put together the post. I put in so many hours into creating and launching my latest pattern that it’s been hard for me to motivate myself to do new blog posts or even sew new things. This last weekend I didn’t even turn on the sewing machine once. I did cut out a new blouse but I usually spend 10 times the amount of time sewing. I think I’ll come out of my cocoon soon and feel a little more energized.

The bodysuit has quickly become a staple in my wardrobe. I recently converted my teal Nettie dress into a bodysuit. I never wore the dress but I’ve already worn the bodysuit and I’m sure I’ll wear it a lot more. This weekend I even ordered some navy fabric for another bodysuit. I’m thinking I need to do elbow length sleeves and a scoop back. I might be getting a little obsessed. :) If you're liking this look or wondering what else you can pair with the Nita Wrap Skirt read my roundup of five pattern pairings. And if you don't have the skirt pattern, you can pick one up here. Happy sewing!

Clockwise from top left: DIY Cat Bed //  Selene Skirt  //  Lena Dress  //  Hayden Top

I’ve taken a little longer than usual to put together this post which means there’s lots more to talk about. There were so many great pattern releases in the last few weeks. It makes me really excited to start sewing for spring and summer. The weather has been really off and on in LA the last few weeks, with some days in the 80s and others cold and rainy. It’s not bad, you just have to pay attention and be prepared to maybe get a little wet some days. It’s nice change from the years of constant sun. With that change of season approaching there’s no better time to start thinking about what pieces we need to add to our Spring and Summer handmade wardrobes.

PATTERN RELEASES

Colette released the Selene skirt pattern (also shown above top right)

Pattern Fantastique released the Falda Jacket

Tessuti released the Demi Pant Pattern and the Audrey Shirt.

Marilee Walker released the Mercury Collection with a small run of printed patterns and digital too.

On the Cutting Floor released the Megan Shirt

Tilly and the Buttons released the retro style Martha dress

True Bias released the Colfax Dress, a lovely tunic style perfect for summer.

Cashmerette released the Concord T-shirt.

There’s a new issue of Seamwork Magazine out, featuring the Hayden Top and Seneca Skirt.

Blank Slate Patterns released the Forsythe Trousers. 

BurdaStyle released two new collections – 50 Shades of Pink and the Plus Size Connoisseur Collection.

The Lena Dress from Wear Lemonade (french language)

There’s a new summer collection from Butterick including a few retro inspired patterns designed by Gertie.

Made It Patterns released the Groove dress from adults, teens and kids

I’m not super big on vintage inspired designs but I really like Simplicity 1166. The skirt is totally classic (pleated button front which I love, see my tutorial here) and the blouse has a really interested sleeve seam, like a raglan with an angle. (I’m sure there’s a technical name for it that I can’t remember right now.)

And for the knitters out there, Quince and Co released the Kestrel Collection.

TIPS & TUTORIALS

I love this DIY Cat Bed from See Kate Sew. It has a cozy hole that I think a cat would really like to get lost in and it’s in the shape of a cat head! I made my kitten a very easy little cat bed and he honestly never uses it. He’d rather be on a 

5 Tips to stop your sewing machine swallowing fabric from Tilly and the Buttons

DIY Zippy Pouch from Sew Caroline

How to Sew Leather Appliques to a T-shirt from Megan Nielsen

How to make thread chains from Colette

Great tips for sewing with knits from Lucky Lucille

I love this rubber dipped tote from Earnest Home Co. It uses a kind of spray on rubber that I’ve never seen before. Someone in the comments mentioned using the spray for the bottom of knitted slippers too. Imagine the possibilities!!

Very interesting read from Itch to Stitch about why your hip measurement doesn't work.

HAPPENINGS

Purl Soho released a new line of fabric called Mineral Linen. It’s a really gorgeous, solid collection with a hint of metallic. It think it would be super gorgeous for a summer dress. 

Dressmakers Social has started the hashtag #dressmakers52. She’s posting a new theme each Sunday and you have the whole week to post a photo inspired by the theme. Read about it here.

Selfish Sewing Week kicked off April 11. So hurry up and go sew something for yourself!

Also I enjoyed reading this Q&A with the costume designer from Girls on Man Repeller.

What else has been happening lately? Please share in the comments.

One of my favorite things to sew and wear is a simple woven top. That’s one of the main reasons that my first pattern, the Lou Box Top, is that exact style. It’s really fast to make yet very versatile. So you can make it over and over again and still have a lot of variety. Today I’m sharing a roundup of similar patterns, all short sleeve tops designed for woven fabrics. What’s your favorite simple top pattern?

10 Simple Top Sewing Patterns

1. Belcarra Blouse by Sewaholic

2. Akita by Seamwork

3. McCall's M7322

4. Zippy Top by See Kate Sew

5. New Look 6267

6. New Look 6025

7. Butterick B6214

8. Beatrix Top by Made by Rae

9. Vogue V8877

10. Fen by Fancy Tiger Crafts

Also worth checking out are the Kimono Top by Salme Patterns, the Maya Top by Marilla Walker and the Scout Top by Grainline. Do you have a favorite simple top pattern? Share in the comments.

I’ve been wanting to make the Scout Tee by Grainline Studio for quite a while (honestly I can say that about a lot of patterns) and finally got around to it. I love basic silhouettes that are easy to sew and this fits the bill perfectly. It’s the kind of shirt that’s easy to throw on with jeans, which is pretty much my busy work days uniform. And (at least in my mind) if it’s in a neutral like this gray chambray, then no one will notice that I’ve worn it twice in one week.

The Scout Tee pattern is a simple scoop neck top with short set-in sleeves and no bust darts. I really love the curve of the neckline. It’s a perfect scoop, not too deep, not too high. The fit is loose but not overwhelming in a light woven like this chambray. 

After sewing it all together I did feel like the simple silhouette and plain fabric were a tad boring so I added a pocket using the pattern from the Grainline Alder Shirtdress. The pointed end of the pocket gives it a little something extra.

As is always the case with Grainline patterns, the instructions are very well done. If you have trouble getting your bias finished necklines to lay flat, make sure to check out their post here. I made a size 10 but used the length for the largest size. My bust is 38 inches so I’m in between a size 10 and 12. Because it has a loose fit, I took my chances and went for the smaller size. I’m pretty satisfied with the fit. It’s not too big at all. I may consider making the sleeves a bit longer as I think they stick out a little bit.

I bought the fabric in downtown LA at a little shop in the fabric district. This is the kind of fabric that I automatically buy 5 yards of every time I see it because I know it will be easy to work with and that I’ll wear the heck out of it. I actually used this fabric to make my Zip Back Lou Box Top, which I also wear all the time. (I may be a lot obsessed with grey. :)

I’m really happy with how this top turned out and I’m sure I’ll be making more. In fact, I’ve already worn this one multiple times. I have some fabric that I bought at the Pendleton outlet in Portland last September that may be destined to become a Scout Tee (or dress!). If you're looking for more inspiration, check out this recent post from Grainline on Styling and Swatches for the Scout Tee and my recent roundup of 10 Simple Top Sewing Patterns.

The Hayden Top from the April issue of Seamwork mag features a high neckline, subtle princess seams in the front bodice, a chunky bias cut hem band and keyhole button opening at the back neck. The shape is fairly box with short sleeves and available in cropped or hip length.

I love a boxy top (I mean my first pattern design was one after all :) So I knew as soon as I saw this pattern that I wanted to try it out. This version is really a wearable muslin, which means it's a test garment that's fully finished so you can wear it. It's a great way to test out the fit and practice the sewing techniques.  

I bought the fabric almost two years ago on a trip to Chicago. It's a very cheap (about $3/yd) faux Liberty print cotton. I really love the print but after making the top decided that I really don't like it used as a garment at all. It just feels a little too fussy for me right now.  

I cut a size 10 and view B. I was concerned that View A would be much too short but I know it just depends what you wear it with. The only change I made was to the angle of the shoulders. I tried on the top before finishing the neckline and the shoulders of the top stood up at my neck. I took in maybe about half an inch at the shoulder seams so that it would lay flat. I’ve also made the Almada robe (unblogged) from Seamwork and have the same issue with the shoulders.

How cute is that keyhole opening at the back neck? The neckline is rather high on this top and it’s a little challenging for me to get the top over my head. If I make this top again, I think I’ll do a scoop neckline and a shorter length. I finished the sleeve hems and the neckline with purchased bias tape. I really love the contrast it creates on the inside. Of course no one else can see it but I know it’s there. :)

To be totally honest, this is not super flattering but I think a fabric with more drape wouldn't do that poof out thing. I'd also like the sleeves to poof out a little less. Unfortunately, you can't see the lines of the pattern because of the print of the fabric but it does have some really nice design lines. This wearable muslin is a great example of how fabric choice really, really, really matters. Done in a solid with a little more drape and it could be perfection. 

I've really enjoyed reading and sewing patterns from Seamwork Magazine over the last few months. In case you're not familiar, Seamwork is an online publication from Colette patterns that is published on the first of every month. It's full of great articles and has two new patterns every month that take three hours or less to sew (my favorite kind!). As a subscriber (just $6 a month), you get monthly credits to download patterns that you can save or spend as you like. If you use this link to subscribe, you can get half off your first month subscription (and I'll get a little bonus from them too). The great thing about signing up now is that there are a whole lot of patterns in the library to choose from. 

I love taking photos, playing with different apps and sharing my photos on Instagram. Over the years I’ve downloaded dozens of apps, some better than others, and I’ve found just a handful that I use all the time. I must also mention that apps and their features change over time and with that, my list of favorite apps changes too. 

If you're involved in the online sewing community, then you know that Me Made May is in full swing. And if you’re anything like me then you’re spending more time than usual playing with photos on your phone. (I'm also spending more time than usual standing around in my skivvies taking photos of my clothes. hee hee) There's really no better time to up your Instagram game and learn how to edit your photos like a pro. You don't need to spend any money, just a little practice, some trial and error and you'll have a feed full of photos that would make any blogger proud. As I tell you about the features I like about each app, I'm also going to share how I use the app to edit my photos. 

The Only 3 Photo Editing Apps You Need for Instagram Worthy Photos

1. VSCOCAM

VSCOCAM is a really popular app, known for its subtle filters and great editing tools. But what I like best about it is the camera. When possible, I take my photos in this app rather than the camera app that comes with the phone. It has a few features like exposure, focus selection, etc that are not available in the standard camera app. Alternately, you can take photos with the camera app and then import to VSCO.

I always take a bunch of photos to get the angle and composition right. Then I select my favorite and open the editing feature. My first step is to crop the photo into a square (or whatever shape you want to use for posting). You don't need to see extra photo that won't be used in the final post. Next, I select a filter. My current favorites are S2 and S3. They are very subtle, increasing brightness, contrast and saturation (S3 especially). If the filter alters the photo too much, you can touch the filter button a second time to open an option to scale back the filter effect. For this photo, I’m going to use the filter S2 at a scale of 8. Now, export that photo and exit VSCO.

2. Snapseed

Next, I turn to Snapseed. It has all the standard editing features of contrast, saturation, etc but what I really like is that you can touch up just parts of the photo. So if you have one dark corner or even a piece of dirt you can edit just that part. The editing tools are very similar to those in Photoshop but you use your finger like a paintbrush to touchup the photo. One of my favorite editing tools is the Selective. I use this to brighten and desaturate the white parts of my photo. 

To use the Selective tool, tap on a part of your photo that you want to adjust, slide your finger left or right to adjust brightness. Then if you want to change the contrast or saturation, slide your finger up and down to select that. Then go left or right again. (It took me a while to find that part of the Selective tool.)

Snapseed also allows you to zoom in on a photo for more accurate editing and to erase parts of what you've done. To view and edit the adjustments you've made, click the number in the top right. 

3. A Color Story

A Color Story is a fairly new app from A Beautiful Mess. It’s a free app that comes with a few filters and add-ons with more available for purchase. The built in filters usually go too far for me but depending on the photo, sometimes it’s exactly what I need. What I really love about this app is the Curves feature. It works just like Curves in Photoshop and you can even adjust just the reds, blues or greens (see screenshot above). It’s a very sensitive app that allows you to do a lot more than most apps out there. Usually, if none of the filters in VSCO are working for me, or if I just want to give a photo a little bit of pop, I’ll open it in A Color Story and do all the editing there.

(4.) Instagram

Finally, I finish the photo in Instagram itself. Instagram has way more capabilities than it used to (which means I can now use fewer apps). IG now has the feature to skew a photo. This is useful for straightening a photo that was taken at a slight angle. (I used to use the app SKRWT for this. It's pretty powerful so if IG is not cutting it for you're skewing needs, check it out.) Adjusting the skew will make a subtle difference but it can help so much.

The adjustment tools now allow for smaller changes than VSCO does. So, if one notch of Saturation is too much for me in VSCO, I’ll wait and do a tiny bump in IG instead. I usually try out the Lux adjustment and see if I like the result. I often use it at 10-20 for a little bump. Then occasionally I’ll add a little brightness or play with the highlights and shadows. 

And now for a little before and after.

This was a tough photo. It would have been a lot better if I had taken the photo earlier in the day when the light was better. The end result is not perfect (the left side is a little too green and in retrospect I would have applied some desaturation in Snapseed to that area). But, it's sooo much better than the original. For this photo I used a combination of VSCOCAM, Snapseed and Instagram. 

For this photo I only used Color Story to edit it. I applied the Ice Ice filter at less than 50% and then applied a touch of curves to make the whites whiter and the darks darker. And to finish it off a little rotating and cropping. 

Remember, the better your photo is in the beginning the better it will be in the end. Editing can only take you so far. So take your photos in good, natural lighting and use a piece of white foam core to reflect more light into the photo area if needed. Once you learn the features of the apps it only takes about 10 minutes to put a photo together. Do you have any favorite photo editing apps? Any tips for getting great photos?

Don't forget to follow me on Instagram to keep up with all of my DIY adventures including my everyday outfits for the month of May. And if you're looking for more photography tips,  check out my post Tips for Better Flatlay Photos.

Lately I’ve been working from home a lot and basically living in my loungewear. I always make a point of changing out of my pjs to make myself feel more awake. But I just can’t bring myself to wear anything that’s not soft and stretchy. Even on days when I work in an office, I often come home and change into comfier clothing. Today I’m rounding up 10 loungewear sewing patterns to help inspire you to DIY your own handmade loungewear.

10 Loungewear Sewing Patterns

1. Hudson Pants by True Bias
I've made these at least four times and I wear them a lot. A total must-have basic for your pattern collection and your wardrobe.

2. Halifax Hoodie by Hey June
This is a great pattern with lots of options in a classic design. I made the zip up version a few months ago and wear it all the time. Check it out here. 

3. Virginia Leggings by Megan Nielsen
I'm a big fan of her patterns and these have been in my to-sew list for too long. Must try soon!

4. Vogue V8909
Fun elastic waist pants perfect for lounging

5. Almada Robe by Seamwork Mag
Super cool kimono inspired robe

6. Stylearc Sabel Boyfriend Cardi
I love the dropped shoulders of this roomy cardi.

7. Montlake Tee by Straight Stitch Designs
A classic t-shirt design with an easy fit.

8. Vogue V8952
I love the roomy dipped hem on this t-shirt.

9. Burdastyle Bralette and Knickers Lingerie Set
This ruffled two-piece set is soooo cute!!

10. New Look 6323
This pattern gives you leggings and a tunic style top. Can we all say "win-win"?

PS If you’re curious what I’ve been wearing lately, check out my instagram for all of my me-made-may outfits. Lots of loungewear included!

I’m a big saver in all aspects of my life. That rubber band from lunch? I’ll save it. That plastic bag? I can use that later. Oh and those abundant fabric scraps? Yes. I’ll save those too. As someone who sews basically all the time. I have a lot of fabric scraps. It can be really hard to use them up. I do throw away the small pieces but when there’s a bigger chunk I fold it up and save it. A couple months ago, I decided it was time to use up some of those scraps and make myself some panties.

I have made panties before (read about it here). I tried out a few different patterns and didn’t really fall in love with any of them. This time around I used the Geneva Panties pattern from Seamwork magazine. I was very foolish and cut out 8 pairs before I even tested the pattern once. I don’t recommend doing that but fortunately they turned out perfectly and I love wearing them. Phew! Yay!

As I've mentioned before, I really enjoy reading and sewing patterns from Seamwork Magazine. In case you're not familiar, Seamwork is an online publication from Colette patterns that is published on the first of every month. It's full of great articles and has two new patterns every month that take three hours or less to sew (my favorite kind!). As a subscriber (just $6 a month), you get monthly credits to download patterns that you can save or spend as you like. If you use this link to subscribe, you can get half off your first month subscription (and I'll get a little bonus from them too). The great thing about signing up now is that there are a whole lot of patterns in the library to choose from. 

These panties are a standard full coverage style. My measurements are waist 28/29 and hips 39 inches and I cut a size medium. I’m on the lower end of the size medium but I think the fit is good. I made a mix of views A and C. View C has three panels at the front so I was able to use up some of the smaller scraps for that view. As I mentioned these are full coverage. If I wear them with low rise pants, they will peak out above the waistband. I think this would be a pretty easy pattern to alter if you wanted to lower the waistband or raise the legs.

My fabric is a mix of knit fabrics that I used for t-shirts and dresses over the last few years. I obviously have a thing for black and gray. haha! I bought black and gray fold over elastic in downtown LA. It’s ridiculously cheap there (like 25 cents a yard). This pattern instructs you to sew the panties all together and then apply the FOE in a loop. The other patterns I’ve done usually have you apply the FOE flat which I found really challenging. For me the elastic is easier to hold stable when in a loop. When it’s flat, the end always slips away and I had a terribly frustrating time. 

To attach the fold over elastic (FOE), I used a zig zag stitch and followed this tutorial from Craftsy. The idea is that you stitch one side of the FOE and then the other. On the right side of the undies, only one row of stitching will show. A couple times, I had my fabric upside down and you can see two rows of stitching on the right side. But no one’s going to see that anyway. 

Making 8 pairs was rather tedious. One pair is really quick to make but 8 is kind of a slog. I did one step at a time so that each pair was at the same step in the process. I think it would have been easier (mentally at least) to do one full pair then move to the second. Or to do, half of them then move to the next batch. I also messed up one step and attached the crotch lining upside down. On every single pair. If I had done one at a time, I would have realized my mistake before repeating it. It was ok in the end and I just trimmed away some of the fabric to make it fit.

I love that I was able to use up a lot of my fabric scraps. I got to help the earth, saved money and now I have lots of comfy new panties. I reorganized my knit fabric drawer (it’s a big drawer haha) a couple weeks ago and found a bag full of more scraps. I think some of it could make great bra tops and I’m planning to try out the Florence Bra pattern by Seamwork soon. If you're looking for more things to do with your scraps, check out my blue scrap quilt. I have more woven scraps that I'm saving for other quilts. It just takes me a year or ten to finish one. :) How do you like to use your fabric scraps?

Welcome to the first day of the Nita Wrap Skirt sewalong. These posts will give you some extra tips for sewing your skirt that would have been too cumbersome to include in the pattern. You’ll also find photos for each step, which can be a great addition to the illustrations found in the pattern. For the sewalong, we’ll be making the waistband from view C of the pattern. Don’t worry if you are making view A or B, the steps are very similar and we'll talk about them too. If you haven't done so already, grab your copy of the pdf pattern right here.

A note on the schedule: I'm planning these posts more as a reference guide than an actual sewalong so I'll be posting everything all at once. You can find a listing of all the posts on the main sewalong page right here.

First let’s cover the tools and supplies you will need. The tools are things you can use over and over for other sewing projects. You probably have most of these but it’s worth mentioning, just in case.

TOOLS:

Sewing machine and iron

Needles and thread to match fabric

Pins

Fabric scissors or a rotary cutter and self healing cutting mat

Paper scissors or x-acto knife (for cutting out the pattern)

Seam ripper

Printed Pattern (get your copy of the pattern right here)

SUPPLIES:

Fabric (see pattern for yardage requirements)

Interfacing (see pattern for yardage requirements)

Lining fabric (optional)

1 snap (or more if you’d like extra security)

View A: 1 button (1/2 inch wide)

View B: 2 D rings (1/2 inch wide)

Glue stick or wonder under (optional)

SELECTING YOUR FABRIC

This pattern is intended for woven, non-stretch fabrics. That said, I have had success using fabrics with a small amount of stretch by sewing the garment one size smaller than the measurements call for. 

When choosing a type of fabric for this project, it’s important to consider which length you are going to sew. I love the mini sewn up in denim or corduroy but those fabrics could feel too heavy in the maxi length. For the mini, I recommend medium to heavy weight cotton or linen, denim, corduroy or wool. For the midi and maxi length, cotton, chambray, linen, twill, poplin, sateen are all appropriate. 

If your fabric is too thin or drapey, it may not fold neatly at the front facing. However, this could be remedied with a heavier interfacing. If you’re at all worried that your fabric is too light weight, I recommend doing a test before you cut. Take a smallish scrap, adhere a strip of interfacing on the bias, then fold and topstitch as you would to make the skirt. 

SELECTING INTERFACING

The interfacing should match the weight of the fabric. A lighter fabric should use a lightweight interfacing and a heavier fabric a thicker interfacing. A heavy interfacing applied to a lightweight fabric can be distractingly stiff (I know this from experience :). 

In my testing of the pattern, I found that when using a heavy denim that interfacing was not required. Use your best judgement and do a test on a scrap of fabric if you’re not sure. 

SELECTING A SIZE

The pdf pattern comes with layers so that you can print only the size (or sizes) that you need. I really love printing only my size because it’s easier to find the markings I need. Plus you can save on ink and maybe paper too. So before you print, you’ll need to find your size. Take a look at the size guide included in the pattern to find the size that most closely matches your measurements. If you are between sizes or unsure, you can print multiple sizes. Then trace the size you’d like test or blend between two sizes. If you need some advice on how to measure yourself, check out this guide from Threads Magazine.

A few things to think about regarding sizing. The skirt is designed to sit at the natural waist and the pattern includes a garment ease is .75 inch in the waist and 2 inches in the hips for all sizes. Personally, my waist is a size 8 and my hips are a size 10. I make the size 10, and just let the skirt sit slightly below my natural waist. However, I could cut a size 8 and just have less ease at the hips. The wrap skirt is pretty forgiving in that way. 

If your waist size is significantly larger than your hip size, you can cut the waistband that fits your waist, and the skirt to fit your hips and then let out the darts until the skirt fits the waistband. For reference, each dart is 1.5 inch wide. I have not done this personally, but I had a customer who used this method and reported success. I also recommend reading this post from the Curvy Sewing Collective.

I also highly recommend making a muslin (a test garment) before cutting into a precious fabric. You don’t necessarily have to cut the full length of the skirt, just the waist and hip part would do to check the fit.

Now that you’ve selected the size(s) you need, we can print the pattern. If you are printing at a copy shop in the US, use the file named “SEWDIY-NitaWrapSkirt-CopyShop-28x80.pdf”. If you are printing outside of the US, use the A0 size file, named "SEWDIY-NitaWrapSkirt-CopyShop-A0.pdf”. The A0 file has 3 pages. The third page is optional, if you want to make a skirt with a little more coverage. For more info on printing at a copy shop, check out this article from Indie Sew. 

If you are printing your pattern at home, open the file named "SEWDIY-NitaWrapSkirt-PrintAtHome.pdf” in Adobe Reader or Adobe Acrobat. This file will work for standard US size 8.5 x 11 inches and for A4 size. Next, open the layers window on the left side of the window. Click the eye icon to the left of the layer names to turn off the sizes you don’t need.

The most important thing to do when printing at home is to make sure that the pattern is printed at actual size (aka no scaling). Print the first page and measure the test square to check that it printing at the correct size. Each page will print with a 7 x 9 inch box that contains a portion of the pattern. I went into some detail on how to tape the pattern together in the Lou Box Top sewalong so I won’t repeat that information. Check out that post here. You can cut the margins off the paper using a utility knife, a rotary cutter or a guillotine style paper trimmer. Some people like to piece the patterns using tape and others prefer glue. Use whatever works best for you.

SHORTENING OR LENGTHENING

To shorten or lengthen the pattern, is fairly easy. The finished lengths for the skirt are: view A: 19.5in (49.5cm), view B: 26 in (66cm) and view C: 37 in (94cm). To determine your desired length, hold a tape measure at your natural waist and let it hang. Take a look in a mirror to see the desired length. Compare to the finished measurements above to determine how much you'd like to lengthen or shorten the skirt. For the front piece, draw a line parallel to the cutting line for view A or B then pivot at the line for the facing. The red line in the photo above shows a new cutting line in between the lengths for Views A and B. For the back piece, just draw a line parallel to the hem at the desired length.

BONUS PATTERN

This pattern comes with a bonus pattern for the left side that provides a bit more coverage. If you plan to use the full coverage pattern you will also need to print the file named "SEWDIY-NitaWrapSkirt-PrintAtHome-BONUSPATTERN.pdf.” 

And that’s it. With all of your supplies gathered and your pattern assembled, it’s time to cut your fabric. Head over to Day 2 to start. 

Welcome to Day 2 of the Nita Wrap Skirt Sewalong! If you haven't done so already, grab your copy of the pdf pattern right here and then check out all of the sewalong posts here.

Day 2: Cutting Fabric, Applying interfacing

You’ve gathered your supplies and assembled your pattern. Now it’s time to cut your fabric and interfacing. The pattern includes cutting diagrams for the different views and widths of fabric. However, you may find that you’re able to use less fabric by cutting the pattern flat instead of folded. 

When you lay your fabric out to start cutting, make sure that it is folded on the grain and not twisted or wrinkled. To check that it is folded straight, hold the folded fabric with the selvage edges at the top, pinched between your fingers. If it is folded on the grain, it should hang straight without any curves. Adjust the selvage left or right until it hangs straight. 

Any of the waist closures can be used with any length. I’m going to be mixing and matching my views a bit and sewing the View B midi length with the View C tie belt. Each pattern piece is labeled with how many you need to cut out. The pieces you need for each view are listed in the pattern on page 7.

Now for cutting. There are basically two ways that you can cut out your fabric–using scissors and pins or using a rotary cutter and pattern weights. For beginners, scissors is generally the way to go because the rotary cutter supplies can be expensive and have a little tiny bit of a learning curve. Tilly has a really great tutorial about cutting and marking for beginners. 

The only thing to watch out for is that when you pin paper to the fabric it will wrinkle a little bit. I often skip the pins and just put one of my grid rulers (or anything handy) on top of the pattern to hold it in place. A rotary cutter will give a very accurate cut but you have to be sure to have a self-healing cutting mat underneath so that you don't damage the surface underneath. And then there's the tricky thing that the cutting mat is smaller than your fabric so you'll need to move it section by section as you cut.

All that said, do what works best for you. I often use a combination of scissors and rotary cutter, choosing whatever seems easiest for the fabric. Hold the fabric in place using pins or pattern weights (I just use whatever heavy thing is handy). Use scissors or a rotary cutter to cut around each piece.

Full Coverage Variation: If you are using the Full Coverage Left Side, you need to be careful to cut with the fabric and the pattern right side up. You only need to cut one from the right front pattern piece (2) and one from the left front pattern piece (8). 

If you are looking for even more coverage, you can straighten out the pattern as illustrated above. If making View B or C, you will no longer have an opening at the center front. 

Next, you'll need to transfer markings to your fabric. I like to punch holes directly in the pattern for darts and circles. Then with the pattern still on top of the fabric, I use chalk or a disappearing ink pen (similar here on amazon) to mark the circles. Make sure you're marking the wrong side of the fabric. For notches, I use a special kind of punch called a pattern notcher (similar one here on amazon) to punch a notch in the side of the pattern. After cutting out the fabric, I use my tiny scissors to carefully make a small clip in the seam allowance. 

INTERFACING

To cut the interfacing, I find it easiest to use my rotary cutter and a ruler. For the waistband (all views), you will need to cut 2 from pattern piece 4 and one from pattern piece 3. Note that for views B  and C, this does not exactly match the fabric pieces. Views B/C have a belt extension from the right waistband that does not need to be interfaced. So instead of cutting interfacing to match pattern piece 5, we will cut two pieces from pattern piece 4 and use for both the left and right fronts.

Apply the interfacing to the waistband, using the manufacturers instructions. It’s a good idea to use a press cloth every time you apply interfacing. This will protect your iron in case you accidentally have the interfacing wrong side up or in case the heat of the iron is too high.

For the front facing, cut two strips that are 2 5/8 inches wide and the length of the facing for that view. For View A cut 21 inches, View B cut 28 inches and View C cut 40.5 inches.  The strip will be a little longer than the facing but you can trim off the little triangles of excess after applying the interfacing to the fabric.

That's it for today. Next we are going to start actually sewing! If you are making a skirt without a lining, head over to Day 3 of the Sewalong to get started. If you are making a lining, skip ahead to Day 4. Happy sewing!

Welcome to Day 3 of the Nita Wrap Skirt Sewalong! If you haven't done so already, grab your copy of the pdf pattern right here and then check out all of the sewalong posts here.

Day 3: Sewing the Front Facings & Darts

Now that we have all of our pattern pieces ready, it’s time to start sewing our skirt. Today we are going to fold and topstitch the front facings, sew the darts and the side seams. It might seem like a lot but it doesn't take too long. Happy sewing!

Note: If you are making a lined skirt, skip to Day 4. If you’re not doing a lining, then start by making the front facings. You already applied the interfacing for Day 2 and now it’s time fold and topstitch.

MAKE THE FRONT FACINGS

Start by folding the long angled edge to the wrong side .5 inch and press. It's really handy to use one of these little rulers called a sewing gauge to check the measurements of your fold.

Then fold it in again along the fold line (also where the interfacing ends) and press. To make the top stitching easier, I like to glue baste the facing in place using a water soluble glue stick or wonder under fusible tape. 

TOPSTITCH THE FACING

I recommend testing out your topstitching on an interfaced scrap of fabric before stitching your skirt. This is a great way to test the stitch length and color. Plus you’ll get a little practice and make sure the machine is threaded correctly.

With a slightly longer stitch length than normal (I use 3.0), topstitch close to the folded edge for both the left and the right sides. I recommend stitching slowly to make sure your stitches are even and properly aligned to the edge of the facing.

 If you’re feeling adventurous, you can do two rows of topstitching or try out a decorative stitch. Here is an example of an alternate way to topstitch the skirt. This is a mini version of the skirt made from a heavy non-stretch denim. I used a denim topstitching thread (thicker than normal thread) to make parallel lines of stitching. I love how something as simple as lines of stitching can elevate the look of a basic skirt. Now, do a little happy dance and admire your topstitching. Maybe even instagram it. 

SEWING THE DARTS

Darts are really cool little folds in the fabric that give the garment shape. They might seem intimidating but they are really very easy. And if you mess up, you have a seam ripper handy to try again. To make a dart, fold the fabric right sides together matching the dots and pin. To make sure I get everything lined up, I stick a pin in the center of a dot, fold the fabric and stick the end of the pin out the other side. Repeat for the next set of dots. The fold will go directly through the dot at the end point of the dart. Insert a pin so that it lines up with the end point.

Starting at the waistband, stitch along the dart line ending at the dart point. You’re essentially connecting the dots with a line of stitching. Some people like to mark the stitching line however as these are pretty short darts, I just eyeball it. You don’t need to backstitch at the point and you really shouldn’t backstitch because it could make the point a little wonky. Instead, when you get to the end of the dart, raise your presser foot, pinch the end of the dart between your fingers and gently pull it away from the machine. Cut the threads about 4 inches (10 cm) long and tie in a knot close to the fabric. Trim thread. Repeat for the rest of the darts. Press the darts towards the center.

Now is a good time to finish your side seams. I personally find it easier to finish the raw edge before sewing the seam but you can do it afterwards. For this fabric, I finished the raw edges with my serger. I turned off the knife so it didn’t cut away any of the seam allowance. You can also use a zig zag stitch on a conventional machine or get all fancy and sew some french seams. Pin the fronts to the back at the side seams with right sides together and stitch using a 5/8 inch seam allowance. 

That’s it for today. Congratulations! Day 4 instructs how to attach a lining so if you’re not doing a lining, skip ahead to Day 5 to make the waistband. Happy sewing!

Welcome to Day 4 of the Nita Wrap Skirt Sewalong! If you haven't done so already, grab your copy of the pdf pattern right here and then check out all of the sewalong posts here.

Day 4: How to Attach a Lining

For some fabrics, it’s really nice to have a lining in your skirt. It can protect your skin from itchy fabric, add another layer of coverage to a sheer fabric or give additional weight to garment. It’s really easy to add a lining to the Nita Wrap Skirt. The steps are very similar to making the skirt without a lining, just in a different order. Let's get started!

Note: If you are not adding a lining to your skirt, skip ahead to Day 5.

First, let’s cut out the lining fabric. You’ll need three pieces: the back, left front and right front. Cut the back same as your fashion fabric just about an inch shorter. For the front pieces, you’ll cut the lining a little smaller than the skirt. To make the skirt lining pattern, cut (or trace) the garment pattern along the line that says “CUT HERE FOR LINING”. This removes the facing plus a little more.

Now we’re ready to sew. Apply interfacing to your garment the same as for the skirt without a lining. Make the darts in the skirt (instructions in Day 3 here) and press towards the center. Make the darts in the skirt lining and press towards the side seams. Pressing the darts for the skirt and the lining will reduce bulk when the skirt is all put together.

Next sew the side seams of the skirt and the skirt lining. Press the seams open. Because the seams will be enclosed it’s not necessary to finish the seams. However, if your fabric frays a lot you may want to finish them. For this sample, I serged the plaid fabric and used pinking shears on the lining. Press the seams open.

Now you’re ready to attach the lining to the skirt. With right sides together and notches matched, pin the angled fronts of the lining to the skirt facings. Stitch from the waistband to a few inches above the hem of the skirt. (The lining will be hemmed separately from the skirt to prevent any pulling or warping at the hem.)

Press the seam allowance towards the lining. Turn the skirt right side out and press along the facing fold line. Pin the skirt waistband to the lining waistband matching the side seams, notches and darts. Baste. If desired, topstitch the front facing. And that's it. Now you can proceed to Day 5 to assemble the waistband and attach it to the skirt. Happy Sewing!

Welcome to Day 5 of the Nita Wrap Skirt Sewalong! If you haven't done so already, grab your copy of the pdf pattern right here and then check out all of the sewalong posts here.

Day 5: Make Waistband and attach

Note: The waistband instructions are the same for making the skirt with or without a lining.

Because our skirt is asymmetrical, it’s important to pay attention to our left and right sides. When I refer to the left side of the skirt, that is the side that is on the left side of the body when it is worn. This skirt is intended to be worn with the right side overlapping the left side. So when you put your skirt on, you put the back against your back, pull the left side across the front and then the right side goes on top. If you get confused, refer back to the line drawing of the pattern.

If you’re making View A, then your left and right front waistband pieces are the same and you don’t need to fret much. With right sides together, stitch the front waistband pieces to the back waistband. Press seams open.

View B: 

First, let’s make the loop that will hold the D-rings. Fold the loop right sides together along the fold line and stitch using a 5/8 inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance, turn right side out and press. Slip the D-rings onto the loop and fold in half with the raw edges together. Pin the loop to the left side of the back waistband, just below the center fold line. Baste in place. There should be 5/8 inch space between the bottom of the waistband and the loop.

NOTE: In the photo, these D-rings are a little too bit. If you have bigger D-rings, you can increase the height of the waistband to match. To calculate the width to cut, multiply the finished height of the waistband by 2 and add .75 inch seam allowance.

View C:

For view C, you need to make the tie that will be at the left hip. Fold the tie in half lengthwise and pin. Stitch along the long edge and one short end. Trim the seam allowance and turn right side out. I find it pretty easy to turn right side out by pushing the sewn short end inside the tube using a knitting needle. Keep pushing and wiggling until the right side starts to come out of the opening. Then pull it the rest of the way. Press. 

Pin the tie to the left side of the back waistband, just below the center fold line. Baste in place. There should be 5/8 inch space between the bottom of the waistband and the tie.

All views: Match notches and sew the left waistband piece to the back waistband at the short ends. 

Match notches and sew the right waistband piece to the back waistband at the short ends. For views B and C it is the long tie belt/waistband piece. The interfaced end should be attached to the back waistband. Press waistband seams open.

Optional: Fold the waistband in half with wrong sides together and press. Press the long un-notched edge to the wrong side a scant 5/8 inch. 

Now is a good time to try on your waistband and check that you’ve assembled the pieces correctly. It’s also a great time to check the fit. Note, the side seams in the waistband also make it easier to adjust the size of the skirt. 

Now we’re ready to attach the waistband to the skirt. With right sides together, match and pin the side seams and notches. 

For views B and C, the right end of the waistband will significantly extend past the skirt. The interfaced end will extend 5/8 inch, just like on the left side.

When the notches are matched correctly, the end of the waistband will extend 5/8 inch beyond the edge of the skirt. To find this point, measure a square 5/8 inch from the corner of the waistband. In the photo, you can see this point is marked in light blue. 

Stitch using a 5/8 inch seam allowance being careful to not let the seam allowances fold over. Backstitch at the beginning and end to the seam.

Next, we need to finish assembling the waistband. Let’s start with the left side. Fold in half with right sides together. Stitch the short end from the fold to the stitching line for the waistband/skirt. If you’re making view A, repeat for the right side.

For views B/C, we need to make the tie that extends from the right front waistband. Fold the tie in half right sides together and pin. Stitch along the short end, pivot at the corner and continue stitching until you reach the skirt. Trim the seam allowance and turn the waistband right side out.

Press  the waistband/skirt seam up towards the waistband. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise and press. Fold the raw edge of the waistband in so that it just covers the seam. Pin in place.

From the right side, carefully stitch in the ditch to hold the back side of the waistband in place. You’ll be stitching on the skirt as close to the waistband as possible. This stitching will be almost invisible when done. Alternately, you can stitch the waistband down by hand. 

View A: Try on the skirt and mark where to place the button hole. Make buttonhole in right side front waistband. Sew button to left front waistband.

Congratulations! That was the hardest day. You are almost done sewing your Nita Wrap Skirt. In Day 6, we'll hem the skirt and do a few finishing touches. Happy sewing!

Welcome to Day 6 of the Nita Wrap Skirt Sewalong! If you haven't done so already, grab your copy of the pdf pattern right here and then check out all of the sewalong posts here.

We are almost done and all the kind-of-hard stuff is behind us. We have just a few finishing touches left to do. 

Try on your skirt and determine how short you want it to be. Press the hem to the wrong side two times to enclose the raw edge and topstitch in place. If you are using a thick fabric, you might want to serge/overlock the raw edge and fold up once only. 

For a skirt with a lining, hem the lining separately from the skirt. If they are finished together, the hem can look a little wonky. Hand tack the lining to the skirt at the side seams and the angled fronts that were left open. 

The last step is attaching some sew-on snaps (or slides if you prefer) to keep the skirt up and aligned. You'll definitely want to attach a snap to the right side and if you're making View B or C, it's a a good idea to attach one to the left side too. Try on your skirt and place pins at points where the skirt overlaps. 

Invisibly sew your snap pieces to the inside of the skirt waistband at the places you marked with the pins. To invisibly sew it on, use a hand needle to carefully stitch through just one layer of fabric. 

Repeat for the right hand side and you're all done. Now you can put your skirt on and hit the town! If you share on social media, please use the #nitawrapskirt so that I can see what you make. I really love seeing what people make using my patterns. You are all creative, amazing people and inspire me with your ideas and variations. In fact, I've been known to copy your hacks from time to time. :) To access earlier posts in this series, go to the Nita Wrap Skirt Sewalong main page. Happy Sewing!!

I love participating in MMM every year. I started back in 2013 before I was on Instagram but really fell in love with it after joining the IG community. I can’t figure out a way to take satisfactory selfies everyday so I opt for doing a flatlay of my garment. It’s also a great way to practice my layout and photography skills! If you're interested in doing your own flatlays, check out my tips. 

So far, this May has been a little different for me. As a freelance designer I usually work in someone’s office on contract but my latest contract ended at the end of April. I’ve been really lucky to be very busy over the last two years that I’ve been freelancing and I’m a good saver so having a few weeks off does not induce budget panic. I love going to the office and interacting with people and the structure that it gives me. The drawback of course is that when I’m working for someone else I have less time for myself, the blog and my pattern business.

All that is to say, I’ve mostly been stuck in non-office-"I’m not going to see anybody" clothes. When I don’t have any plans for the day it’s really hard to get out of pjs. But I make a point of at least changing my clothes everyday so that I feel somewhat human. Allie from Indie Sew wrote some really great posts (here and here) about dressing for working at home and finding the right handmade clothes for your life.

To top it off, May has been cloudy and coldish in LA. I wore a lot of Hudson Pants, Linden Sweatshirts and of course Lou Box Tops. On cloudy days when I’m sitting at the sewing machine or (let’s face it) on the couch or in bed with my laptop, I want to be in comfy soft clothes that will stretch and keep me warm. And without further ado, a little list of things I wore and a bunch of links.

Day 1 Striped Linden sweatshirt, woven High waist modified hudson pants, Knit lou box top and Geneva Panties

Day 2 Seafarer Top, woven Hudson Pants

Day 3 Adelaide Dress, RTW sweater.
I made this dress a few months ago and it’s been too cold to wear until now. Wearing it for the first time, I feel like it’s a little too big and that if I make it again I should consider going down a size. 

Day 4 Knit Fair Isle Hudson Pants, handmade socks, knitted vest

Day 5 Striped Knit Lou Box Top
I made this one size smaller than my measurements and totally love the fit. Btw, it was Lauren Dahl's idea to size down and I'm so happy I did. See her version here.

Day 6 Denim Mini Nita Wrap Skirt, Vogue V2947 blouse

Day 7 Self drafted leggings, knit racerback tank

Day 8 Repeated Self drafted leggings, Striped knit tank, Geneva Panties

Day 9 Black Nettie Bodysuit and Purple Print Linden Sweatshirt

Day 10 Emily Culottes and a knit striped Lou Box Top (unblogged)

Day 11 Baseball Skirt (unblogged)

Day 12 Teal Racerback Knit Dress Simplicity 2443

Day 13 Zip Back Lou Box Top variation and Birkin Flares

Day 14 Striped Knit Skirt (pattern from Built By Wendy Knits book)

Day 15 Self-drafted Grey Knit Racerback and Grey Striped Linden Sweatshirt

Day 16 Yellow Polka Dot Blouse Simplicity 1661
This blouse has made an appearance every year of Me Made May. The fabric and style just can't be beat. 

Looking for more outfit inspiration? Check out past years roundups (2015, 2014, and 2013) and stay up to date with the rest of this month by following me on Instagram. Have you been participating in Me Made May this year? How's it going for you?

I’m leaving for Paris in just one week and I can’t wait! I haven’t been abroad in six years. It’s been eight since I’ve gone to Europe and 20 years since I’ve been to France! It’s a trip that I’ve been wanting to make for years and I’ve finally made the time to do it. Of course as soon as I booked the trip, I started thinking about what to pack and what to make.

My dream European vacation wardrobe is full of chic and comfortable handmade garments. I have exactly what I need for every occasion but have not overpacked at all. I did a lot of research on what I should pack for my two week adventure and started to compile my packing list. The list looks pretty much like the moodboard above (links right below this paragraph). The shoes and backpack are actually coming with me and I'm super excited about them. The shoes are all amazingly comfortable and the backpack can be converted into a shoulder bag. I really wish that I had time to make an organizer like the one in the photo that would hold all my electronics but I don't think I'll have enough time. C'est la vie!

Top row from left: Striped Top //  Navy Tee  //  Chambray Skirt  //  Backpack  //  Sandals
Middle row: Green Pants  //  Flared Jeans  //  Chambray Dress  //  Striped Dress  //  Booties
Bottom row: Bra Top  //  Organizer  //  Keds  //  Leggings  //  Buttondown  //  Jacket

My sewing plans were going fairly well in the beginning. I chose 4 things to make: a Brumby skirt, Moji Pants, an Archer shirt and and Alder dress. It is quite worth noting that I had only made one of these patterns before and the fit was not right (the alder dress). I do not recommend an ambitious list plus untested patterns plus a time constraint.

My original plans were ambitious and yet I continued to add ideas to the list. Why? Because good ideas can not be left undone. Right? Yes and no. I realized as I drove to work a few days ago that I was putting way too much pressure on myself. There are things that one needs to worry about a little bit and take care of but I was piling on lots of other things that just don’t matter. Namely, wanting to make more things.

Unfortunately, there just isn’t enough time in the day/week/month to actualize everything I want make. And that’s really ok. As much as I like the idea of having a completely handmade wardrobe I know that it’s not realistic for me. If I find something in a store that fits me and my lifestyle perfectly, I’m probably going to buy it, especially if it’s good quality. I recently bought a pair of flared jeans that I love. I’ve also made flared jeans (check out my Birkin Flares here). And I love them too. But they also take a really long time to make. So, I bought myself a new pair of jeans. I wear them a few times a week and I’m seriously considering taking them on my trip. And one day I might trace the pattern and sew a copy. Or not. Because there are so many things to make!

I am a big planner. I have multiple to-do lists. I’ve tried all the time management apps. I’m constantly consulting my calendar and shuffling things around. The problem is I have so many things that I want to do that there is rarely a day when I can actually accomplish all of them. The list is never finished and lately it was starting to make me feel stressed. So I forced myself to go to plan B. Rather than making everything I want to make for the trip, I will make a plan and then sew as much as I can without being stressed about it. I have substitutes in my wardrobe for most of the things that I wanted to bring so I won't be going unclothed.

So, back to the sewing. I ordered fabric and set out to make the two easiest things first. (A great way to check some things off the list, btw.) I completed my Brumby Skirt with only minor fitting issues. Then I hit a snag with the Moji Pants. I had almost completely finished them when I discovered that they were too tight at the ankle to fit over my feet. I’ll do a full post on these pants in a few days but in short even though I did some mods to make them wearable they are not wearable enough to be a core wardrobe item. The good news is that they fit my mom so I’ll be giving them to her.

After that fail, I still really wanted a pair of peg leg pants. So I bought the Alexandria Trousers pattern from Named Clothing and more fabric. Exercising caution this time, I made a muslin. It went quite well and I’ve cut out another pair in green woven fabric. They are pretty quick to sew up and I'm hopeful that I will finish them quickly.

I have cut out the Archer but I don't think I'll have time to sew it in the next week. I still need to do an FBA adjustment to the Alder dress pattern and I’m not even going to think about that until I finish a few other projects. That dress is going on the someday list for now.

Before I had my realization, I added a few other things to my wish list: a woven Lou Box Top, the Virignia leggings and a cross back Watson bra. And if I wanted to travel completely handmade, I’d have to add the Lark Tee and Driftless Cardigan. I own both patterns but have yet to sew them. So for now, RTW will have to do.

The woven LBT is cut out and I’m pretty confident that I can sew it together in 2 to 3 hours but I don’t think I will have the time. Instead, I will pack a few extra knit t-shirts that will not be as prone to wrinkling. The Virginia Leggings pattern is printed and taped and the fabric is purchased and washed. I may make these because I know it will be a quick project but I’m really trying to resist adding more things to my to-do list.

I have spend the night before many a trip sewing late into the night. I love taking handmade things on a trip but it does have a knack for causing me stress. To add to the stress of wanting to sew a gajillion things I'm also trying to study French (I took it in school but need a big refresh) as well as work as much as possible. Do you sew things for your travels? Are you a night before the big event sewer? Share in the comments how you combine sewing and travel. By the way, I'll be taking a sock knitting project on the road with me. It's my favorite portable craft.