Clockwise from top right: Colette Wren Dress // Chunky Sweater  //  Pauline Alice Rosari Skirt // Waxed Pumpkins

Hi sewing friends! I hope that you've wonderful weeks and are enjoying your weekend. Did you sew any costumes this year? I'm actually not that big on Halloween I do love to see how creative people get with their costumes. I have a ton of sewing projects in the works and I'm hoping to get a lot done this weekend. And maybe even a little knitting. I'm also really excited for #BPsewvember to start on Nov. 1. It was so much fun last year. I'm looking forward to doing it again. Read on to see what's been happening in the sew world the last couple of weeks.

PATTERN LAUNCHES

Colette launched the Wren Dress, a knit dress with wrap front and sleeve options.

Pauline Alice released the Rosari Skirt Pattern. I love the button front and pocket options on this skirt. So cute and fun!

Grainline Studio released the Tamarak Jacket pattern

Butterick Patterns released their Winter/Holiday Collection. I'm most intrigued by B6295, a leggings/sports bra pattern by Lisette. Or if you're looking to do the whole adult-onesie thing for the holidays, check out B6298, a cute and comfy romper with optional hood. 

TUTORIALS AND SUCH

Tips for speedier sewing from The Craft Sessions

How to Reduce Textile Waste as a Home Sewist from Sew Mama Sew

Tips for using Foldover Elastic from So Zo. I’m wanting to make more underwear and maybe even bras (!) so I’ll definitely be referring back to this post.

Tips for Sewing with Bulky Knits from Indie Sew

Fuel Your Creativity by Organizing Your Stash from Paprika Patterns

DIY Fabric Dyeing from Design Love Fest

5 Must Have Sewing Machine Feet from See Kate Sew

3 Investments to Improve Your Sewing from Did You Make That?

5 Tips for Achieving an Accurate, Consistent Seam Allowance from Sew Mama Sew

Top 5 Fall Blouse Patterns from IndieSew

How to Sew an Exposed Zipper from Tilly & The Buttons

I picked up this rather vibrant (dare I say neon! or is it chartreuse?) green fabric sometime last year in downtown LA. The Michael Levine bulk store is a haven for knits and I've been lucky to find a lot of basic solids there. I found this one when I was in the midst of testing the Lou Box Top and snatched it up. I had planned to make a sample and give it to a friend whose skin tone might be better flattered by this color but never got around to it.

I recently purchased a novelty racerback tank. It sports the phrase “I wish you were beer” which I childishly think is hilarious and of course I had to buy it. It’s a little low cut under the arms so I decided to trace it and make an undershirt to wear with it, adding some extra coverage to the armholes. It went pretty well so in a fit of sewing inspiration/madness, I decided to make a racerback swing dress. I just extended the length and made sure there would be enough room for the hips.

Mostly, I’m pleased with the fit of the dress/tank however adding the extra coverage seemed to mess with how the shoulders sit on the body and the shoulder seams pull a little forward. I’m not too stressed about it because it’s comfortable and I see it as a comfortable, weekend wear. So fit perfection is not too much of a worry. However, if I make another racerback I think I’ll go back to another one I traced off an RTW last year.

The construction was pretty quick and easy, just side seams and shoulder seams then binding the neck and armholes. I finished the hem with a twin needle on my conventional machine fitted with a walking foot. I used wooly nylon thread in the bobbin which I highly recommend. It’s a stretchy, multi-strand thread that helps the twin needle stitch lay flat.

I've really come to love the look of a racerback. It used to be pretty exclusively for athletic wear and still feels really casual to me but I love being able show off a little of my back and not feel too exposed. Overall, I'm very pleased with this dress and like the color much more than I initially thought I would. I plan on wearing it a lot on weekends (as I did the rest of Sunday when I took these photos) and even as a nightgown. That said, the weather seems to be turning cooler and I might actually need to get a coat out of the closet. So this dress will need to keep until spring or the next heat wave.

Have you ever traced an RTW garment to create a pattern? How did it work for you?

I try to work out a few times a week but I haven't sewn any activewear yet (unless you count this Linden sweatshirt which I do wear to the gym on occasion). Along with a little light cardio and some at-home pilates, I really enjoy lifting weights because it’s not too boring and I feel like I can actually see the results (yay muscles!). The hardest thing for me is getting started. I’d just rather be sewing. Maybe if I had more me-made activewear I’d get myself to the gym more often? Maybe. :) When I’m ready to add to my me-made activewear though, you can safely bet I’ll be checking out these patterns.

1. Pneuma Tank by Papercut Patterns

2. Kwiksew K4113 For those don't like running shorts, this pattern gives you a running skirt.

3. Seymour Jacket by Sewaholic I can imagine wearing this while jogging on a drizzly day in the Northwest when you don't want to get too wet or too hot. 

4. McCall's M7261 This pattern gives you a fitted sweatshirt and leggings with cool seaming details.

5. XYT Top by Fehr Trade

6. Jalie 2920 Stirrup Leggings. My 80s dreams come true.

7. Dunbar Top by Sewaholic

8. McCall's M7293 I love the seaming on this jacket.

9. Steeplechase Leggings by Fehr Trade

10. Ooh La Leggings by Papercut Patterns

And one honorable mention for New Look 6142 a unisex pattern with sweats, zip-up jacket and tanks. Have you sewn activewear before? Tried any of these patterns? Also check out my 5 Favorite Sewing Patterns which include some lounge-y, could be activewear options.

Today I’m excited to announce that you can now buy both of my patterns in one bundle for a discounted price of $16 (separately it’s $19.50 to buy both). The Beginner's Bundle includes both the Lou Box Top and Baseball Skirt pdf sewing patterns. These two patterns are a great way to practice your sewing skills and build your handmade wardrobe. Both are designed for beginners, with easy to follow steps. And as a bonus they use only about a yard of fabric each.

These two patterns are staples in my closet and they even work together. Both can be very casual as seen here or when made in crepe or silk they can be rather dressy. 

Last but certainly not least, to celebrate my birth-week (I’m officially one year older on Tuesday!) I’m also offering 25% off all individual patterns (does not apply to bundle). Use the code BIRTHDAY25 at checkout until Nov. 17 at midnight, Pacific time. So head over to the shop, check 'em out and Happy Sewing! 

It's finally gotten cold enough in LA that I need to bundle up. I can almost pretend that it's cold enough to warrant a wool coat. At least when the sun goes down it's cold enough. :) I love the boxy fit and assymmetrical style. And bonus! This is a fairly easy thing for you to make yourself. Read on to see how I would DIY it. 

Step 1: Today's inspiration is this coat from Ann Taylor. It's a classic style that could easily be worn everyday. Whether you're making a grocery run or going to a concert, it goes with everything.

Step 2: The pattern Vogue V9136 is very similar to the inspiration. The pattern has multiple lengths and comes with the option for patch pockets or in seam pockets. It's part of the Very Easy Vogue series which in my experience are very easy patterns to construct.

Step 3: For the fabric I selected a grey knit wool coating from Mood. It's sure to keep you warm and not fray like crazy during construction. 

Are you making a coat this season? What's your favorite coat style?

I don’t quite remember why I decided to make this jacket but I think that when I was making my fall sewing plans, I looked at the list and thought I should add a basic jacket. Then I found Simplicity 1688 in my stash and decided it was the one. I chose a navy linen as the fabric and with some very easy stitching and hardly any fitting, I have a great basic jacket. Granted, it is more suited to spring or summer but I don’t think the cropped style will go out of fashion too quickly.

The pattern is Simplicity 1688 by Cynthia Rowley. I’ve used a few of her Simplicity designs before and have always been pleased with the results. This pattern comes with a shift dress and two jackets, this one and one with pieced stripes. This jacket is View A and features bands at the hem and sleeve cuffs. It is fully lined with fashion fabric lining the bands.

A few days after cutting out the pattern pieces, I realized that I was missing one of the pieces.  I looked all over but couldn’t find it. I don’t know if I lost it or it wasn’t included to begin with but I was not confident enough to just redraft it. So, I emailed Simplicity customer service and after I told them what size I needed, they sent me a pdf of the missing pattern piece. They were so speedy and accommodating. Thank you Simplicity!

I decided to skip the muslin but instead used my lining as a test. I cut a size 14 in the front and back bodice and stitched it together. After trying it on, I decided to lower the bust dart length by about 1.5 inches. I made the adjustment to the pattern and cut out the fashion fabric. To give the jacket a smidge more length (1/2 inch to be exact), I used a 3/8 inch seam allowance at the sleeve bands and hem band. I'm 5'11" so I usually need a little more length. I think if you wanted to lengthen it more it wouldn’t be too hard to add length to the body. However, it is boxy and the silhouette could be overwhelming if lengthened a lot. 

The pattern was really easy to put together. I think a confident beginner could tackle this project without issue. There are no zippers or buttons to throw you off. The hardest part is stitching around the curve at the edge of the jacket. Plus the boxy style is pretty easy to fit. It's a great jacket pattern to get you started. 

The fabric is a navy linen that I bought at Joann's. It was really easy to work with as most cottons and linens are. The lining is some sort of poly from my stash. I like to have a little stash of lining fabric on hand in the basic colors (white, black and navy). I often sew on a whim and it's so handy to already have lining ready to go when I need it. Do you do that too? I also stock up on zippers. But they're now starting to explode out of their shoebox so I need to remind myself that I'm well stocked on zips and stop buying them. :)

Overall I really like the jacket. However I do think the shoulders are a smidge too wide. If I make it for myself again, I might take it in a little there. In these photos, I’m wearing the jacket with my Floral Alder Dress. I love the fun floral pink paired with the plain navy. I’ve been meaning to make another Alder with a few fit adjustments (FBA and lengthening) and will hopefully get around to it by the Spring.

I’m planning to make this jacket again as a christmas gift for my Mom. She brought back a piece of very lightly woven silk from India and asked for a jacket. The fabric is very light and loosely woven so we’ve decided to try sewing it with a double layer. I will need to make sure we have enough fabric though. Cross your fingers for me that it works out!

I’ve always had a fondness for the Vogue line of patterns. I’m afraid to even guess how many of their dress patterns I have in my stash. But that  did not stop me from snatching up Vogue V9075. It’s from their Very Easy Vogue series (which I have always found to indeed be very easy) and features a princess seam sleeveless dress and culottes style jumpsuit with short sleeves. I’ve had the pattern for a few months and then a week before my birthday a whim took over (as they often do when it comes to sewing) and I decided that I needed to make myself a new birthday outfit. This pattern was the winner.

I set out to my local JoAnn’s and found this beautiful gray linen on sale. It’s a great fabric, very easy to work with but also very prone to wrinkling. The wrinkles are to be expected though. It is linen after all. The fabric is kind of a medium weight so that it’s not see through at all but still has a nice drape.

I made a lot of measurements of myself and the pattern and decided to cut the size 14 except at front bust area and side seams cut 16 and graded to 14 at the waist. My measurements are 38-28-39 so I’m running in that 14-16 zone. Because the pants are pleated, I knew that there would be enough ease there. For the sleeves, I cut the sleeve cap at 14 and underarm seams at 16. I then pinned all the tissue paper pattern pieces together and tried it on. It was way to short for my long body (I’m 5’11”) so I lengthened the bodice 1” and added 2” to both the crotch and hem.  

I started by cutting out the bodice lining and sewing it together to check the fit. It looked good so I went ahead and cut into the linen. It’s always nerve racking to not do a full muslin first and I really took my time with the measurements. Fortunately, it worked out and I couldn’t be happier with the fit. I’m seriously thinking about the dress version too because I love how the bodice fits. The dress is such a great basic design.

If you are making this and adding length to the bodice, I recommend also getting a longer zipper. Mine only extends a few inches past the waist seam and it’s a little snug to pull on. I did an invisible zipper because it just looks so much better and I find it’s just as easy to insert as a standard zipper.

After trying it on, I decided it was too heavy to go longer than mid-calf. So, I ended up trimming at least 3 inches from the hem. Jumpsuits are not the most practical thing but I really enjoyed wearing this on Thanksgiving this year. I did have one early moment of panic that the fitted waist wouldn’t allow for eating a ton but it actually worked out just fine. I think this look works best with a little bit of heel. Here I'm wearing it with my new favorite shoes, these suede wedges from Toms. 

Have you tried this pattern? Do you have a favorite jumpsuit pattern? If you're looking for more jumpsuit patterns, I have a round up right here. Happy sewing!

After cleaning out my closet a few months again, I began to feel like I didn’t have any dresses to wear. I had success Inari Tee pattern but wanted to expand my repertoire. In my search for basic dress patterns, I found the Adelaide dress from Seamwork Magazine. All of the Seamwork patterns are designed to be sewn in just a few hours and this one only takes 3 hours. Even though I did buttons instead of snaps on the dress it was really fast to make. I just love a fast make, especially when it’s a basic, wardrobe builder like this dress.

For this pattern, I decided to start with a wearable muslin (a test garment out of fashion fabric that’s completely finished). The fabric is from the Michael Levine bargain bins in downtown LA. It’s almost a seersucker but doesn’t have as much puckering and I suspect it also has some synthetic fibers. It’s a light-medium weight with no show-through (yay!) so it’s just perfect for this dress.

I cut a size 10 at the bust and graded to an 8 at the hips. Following the advice of Rachel, I also lowered the bust dart one inch. In the end, I think the fit is pretty good and works really well belted. The pattern also includes a self fabric belt and belt loops but I skipped those. I am considering adding the belt loops though. I think it would give the dress a nice additional detail. One thing I’m considering changing about the fit is moving the shoulders in towards the neck. They feel just on the verge of too wide.

The pattern calls for using snaps to close the front of the dress (I think to cut down on the sewing time). I have an overflowing button collection and have never been successful setting snaps so I went for buttons. As this is just a muslin, I chose some vintage but not so special buttons. I have at least 20 of these buttons and figured out I could use more of them by applying them in pairs. I love how the button pairs look and I think it makes this otherwise plain dress extra special.

Sadly, this dress totally wrong for the current season as it’s relatively cold in LA right now (finally! yay!). I won’t be able to wear it anytime soon, but I know that I’ll be able to come back to this pattern to build out my summer wardrobe.

I had been thinking that I need to reintroduce the backpack into my life when Sara from Radiant Home Studio asked me to join her 2nd Birthday Celebration blog tour. Of course, I jumped at the chance to try out her Retro Rucksack pattern and I’m so glad I did. The Retro Rucksack is a backpack/satchel combo. Sling the straps over your shoulders and you have a backpack. Or, grab the handle at the top and it will lengthen into a single strap satchel style bag. The bag features two interior pockets, two side pockets and a recessed zipper at the top. Click through to see lots of pics!

I really enjoyed taking a break from my garment making and practice some different skills with this bag. I used a heavy, non-stretch denim that I found in a bargain bin in downtown LA. I wanted a heavy duty fabric and a classic look so this denim was the answer. I used a jeans needle to stitch the seams and do the topstitching. It worked well and handled the denim plus interfacing quite well. All the topstitching made me feel more confident that I could actually sew my own jeans someday. They’re intimidating to me the same way sewing bras are but I think I might be able to work up to it. :)

The pattern has instructions for using contrasting fabric on the exterior but I decided to only use the denim for a cleaner look. The lining is a blue and white stripe that’s almost like seersucker. It’s another bargain bin fabric that I think is a cotton/poly blend. It has a nice weight to it. In fact, I also used the lining fabric to make the dress which you can find out more about here.

I ordered the hardware from Emmaline Bags. The pattern calls for a mix of 1” and 1.5” hardware but I accidentally bought all 1.5” which worked just fine. For the straps, I used a pre-purchased 1.5 inch cotton webbing. I really like the look of the cotton webbing. I think it gives it a more professional look and saved some time from making my own. I really love the sliders on the straps so that the length can be adjusted.

Scroll through the photos above to see pics of all the sides and pockets. This is a great project to make as a gift for the holidays or just for yourself anytime of year. If you're interested in buying the pattern, see below for a discount code good until 12/11/15. And be sure to check out all the other lovely sewists on the blog tour (also below).

Radiant Home Studio 2nd Birthday Celebration:

Disclosure: I received this pattern for free but all opinions are my own.

This holiday season, I’m really excited by anything with sparkle or flash, everything from sequins and gold to a little bit of faux fur. Of course, I have to up the ante in the makeup department too. I've been playing around with lots of red lipstick and eyeshadow and it's so much fun. Here are a few of my favorite ready to wear holiday season pieces.

Top row from left:  Black Mini Dress  //  Jumpsuit  //  Silver Belted Dress  //  Tassel Earrings  //  Red Lipstick  //  Black Pumps  //  Silver Loafers  //  Eyeshadow 

Bottom row: V-neck Sequin Dress  //  Gold Dress  //  Sequin Ankle Pants  //  Necklace  //  Clutch  //  Jacquard Dress

For more fashion picks, follow me on pinterest.

Party dresses should be a little more than your average everyday dress. And when it comes to holiday party dresses, well then it’s time it step it up even more. Add some sparkle. Go for a dramatic silhouette. A party or special occasion is the perfect excuse to make yourself something new (even if it means you have to stay up all night to get done before the big event ;). Here are a few of the patterns I’d like to try. Remember the fabric is going to do half the job, so go for something luxurious, beautiful and maybe even a little dramatic.

10 Holiday Party Dress Sewing Patterns

1. Georgia Dress by By Hand London
I love the simple, sexy silhouette of this dress. Just the right kind of pattern to show off a fun fabric. 

2. Vogue V1208
I own this pattern and just need to find the right fabric. The dress is cut on the bias so the fabric has to be 60 inches wide making it a little more tricky to find. I love the one sided shoulder detail. 

3. Leotie Midi Dress by Named Clothing
I love the contrast shoulder panels on this. They'd look great with a sheer fabric in the panels.

4. Long Sleeve Dress 11/2015 #113 by Burdastyle
The long sleeves balance out the bodycon silhouette of the dress. Perfect for a holiday soiree.

5. Simplicity 1105
I own this pattern too but have yet to try it. The back bow and swing shape are super fun. The perfect silhouette for attending a large meal. ;)

6. Ailakki Jumpsuit by Named Patterns
Made up in black silk or something equally swanky, this jumpsuit with a sexy cut out detail will make you the belle of the hipster ball.

7. Vogue V1471
Go classic with this fitted lace dress with long sleeves for extra coverage.

8. Yo Yo Dress by Papercut
The slim silhouette and front zipper make this one a show stopper.

9. Belladone Dress by Deer and Doe
I love the cut out back detail of this dress. Made in a shiny brocade, it's party ready.

10. McCall's M7083
I love the sheer gathered sleeves on this classic silhouette. Very easy to wear and fancy too.

In case these ten are not enough, here are a few honorable mentions:

Phoebe by Colette Patterns (on sale until Dec 23!)

Dani Dolman and Paris Dress by Style Arc

Scalloped Dress 12/2015 #120B by Burdastyle

Ultimate Shift Dress by Sew Over It (This basic shape would look amazing in sequins.)

Are you making any party dresses this year? What pattern and fabric are you using?

A few weeks ago I was digging through the Michael Levine bargain bins and found this amazing black printed knit fabric. On the digging expeditions I try to be hard on myself and only buy fabric that I truly love or truly need. This was a very easy decision. It was absolutely love at first sight between me and this fabric. The fabric has a pretty thick weight, like a double knit and the pattern is printed on top for a tone-on-tone look. 

I also knew right away that this fabric was going to become leggings. The thickness meant that there would be no show through but there was enough stretch to also make the leggings super comfy (that's one thing I've learned from previous leggings sewing, you really need lots of stretch for more comfort). I've made leggings three times before and let me tell you, they are so quick and easy. And fun! I drafted my own pattern using this tutorial from Randomly Happy.

It's a pretty good fit but not exactly how I want it so this time around I extended the top by a few inches to make a higher waistline. The elastic waist is created by stitching a loop of elastic to the waistline, folding it down and stitching again. It's a little bit baggy on me and I have to hitch it up every now and then. So I'm thinking I'll unpick it and shorten the elastic loop. I used a simple zig zag to stitch down the elastic so it won't be too tedious.

One happy accident was that I forgot to add more to the hem. Oops! I really should have tried on one of my other pairs to check the fit before I cut into the fabric but I was just so excited. To compensate for the short length, I added little cuffs to the bottom. I actually really like the look of the cuffs and I think they add a nice design detail. 

The next time I do leggings, I'm tempted to try out the Virginia Leggings by Megan Nielsen. I already have this pattern but somehow I think she's probably done a better job than I did. I love so many of her patterns I bet I'd love that one too.

This outfit has become my new favorite casual weekend going out outfit. I know it's winter but paired with a big sweater or coat and a hat, I'm usually warm enough. I do live in LA after all. And I love that I can be totally comfortable but still feel put together and dare I say sexy. The racerback tank is also a DIY that I haven't blogged about yet. It's based on a traced tank, same as this dress. Do you have a casual going-out outfit? That one you throw to meet friends for drinks but makes you feel like you're wearing pajamas.

I've always loved the Christmas season and ever since I've had a place of my own I've loved decorating for the season in just the way I want. I've even created a little collection of trees in all different colors so that I can create a theme for each tree. (obsessive? perhaps. But so much fun. :) This year I've been crazy busy with work and parties so I only put up the white one (instagrammed here) and I went with a red and silver theme. I likely won't get around to making any DIY ornaments this year but it is nice to dream so I've put together a little roundup for your inspiration. Happy crafting!

Twelve DIY Christmas Ornaments

1.  Bell Jar Ornaments from My So Called Crafty Life

2. Gold Glitter Ornaments from The Beauty Dojo

3. Donut Ornament from Studio DIY

4. Felt Pinecone from BHG

5. Origami Ball Garland from Sew DIY

6. Origami Diamond Ornaments from How About Orange

7. Retro Fabric Christmas Light Ornaments from Kojo Designs

8. Upcycled Christmas Wreath Ornament from Creative Green Living

9. Beaded Tassel Ornament from Sew DIY

10. Narwhal Ornament from Grainline Studio
Check out their owl ornament too. So cute and you get to sew!

11. Pom Pom Ornaments from North Story

12. Pipe Cleaner Ornaments from Martha Stewart
I'd love to make this for my white or silver tree. They look so easy and I love the simple design.

For more holiday DIY inspiration, check out my Holiday Crafting board on Pinterest.

I've done a lot of DIY tutorials over the years and a lot of the projects make really great gifts. So I thought, why not round them up and share again. There are just a few days before Christmas but these projects are all really to do and most take just an hour or two. Back before my working days, I had a lot of downtime around the holidays to sit back and craft. I especially loved making quick knits like my cabled hat for all of my family members. So if you have a little bit of time before the festivities take off, why not make a little something for someone special. And when you're done crafting, download my free printable Handmade Gifts Tags to wrap up your presents with something extra special.

12 Easy Handmade Holiday Gifts

1. Fabric Decoupage Jewelry Dishes

2. Paper Wrapped Candles

3. Decoupage Juice Glass Set

4. Chunky Cable Knit Hat (Free Pattern)

5. Painted Christmas Utensils

6. Fingerless Knitted Mitts (Free Pattern)

7. Therapy Rice Pillow

8. Triangle Bag

9. Easy Sunglasses Case

10. Drawstring Travel Bag

11. Turban Headband

12. Half Circle Zip Pouch

I don’t usually go for the flashy and the fur but I had a chalet theme holiday party to attend, so why not? I went downtown and found myself a half yard of nice faux fur. There are so many not nice faux furs that when I saw this one at a random tiny shop in the LA fabric district, I just snatched it up. A half yard was just enough to make a vest and fur boot covers and I think it was only $15. It was so much fun to wear the fur that I wore the set a second time for another holiday party. I never knew before that fur is really a great addition to a winter wardrobe. It kept me warm and completed the winter chalet look to perfection. I actually want to wear it on non-party days too.

Handling the fur wasn’t too bad but it was a little challenging. I solicited tips on Instagram and did a bunch of research before I got started. First off, you have to make sure you cut everything right side up. You don’t want your fur hanging the wrong way. Then when you cut your fur, you want to be careful not to cut through the layers of fur that are hanging down from the fabric up above. This is especially important at the hemline. Most people recommend using a razor blade to cut fur. I tried it but couldn’t cut easily with my blade. It might have been too dull. I found that cutting very carefully with scissors worked best. I just kept the scissors right next to the fabric and cut a little bit at a time. As long as you don’t move the bottom blade below the hairs, it should work just fine.

For the vest, I loosely followed this tutorial by Sew Caroline. I drafted my own pattern, just estimating the measurements. I initially wanted a crewneck style but after trying it on decided that it was too bulky looking. So I trimmed the front to make a v-neck. I wanted to do as little hand stitching as possible so I attempted to stitch  around the neck, front opening and hem then turn right side through the armholes. The problem came at the hem and all that fur. Machine stitching catches the fur that hangs down into the stitching line and it’s really hard to pull it loose. At the side seams it’s easy enough to pull out the extra fur that is caught in the seam line but at the hem it was a major pain in the caboose. I tried more times than I should and wasted a lot of hours. In the end I hand stitched the hem to the lining. Then turned it right side out and stitched the armholes by hand as well. If I make one again, I’d love to have a pocket at the side seam or on the interior.

Here I’m wearing a vintage raglan sleeve trapeze dress that I found at the thrift store years ago. It’s one of my all time favorite dresses. It’s super comfortable to wear but I still feel put together and fancy without being too revealing. The second time I wore the fur set, I wore a different thrift store little black dress and it worked just as well. Come to think of it, I might need to add another LBD to the wardrobe. Did you make anything to wear this holiday season?

P.S. Stay tuned to the blog for more info on the boot covers. I'll post a basic tutorial for those soon. And if you want to stay up to date on all my posts, follow on bloglovin.

For a recent chalet themed holiday party, I went full out (or should I say full Swiss Miss) and made myself a fur vest and boot covers.  I had just a small piece of fur left over from the vest and thankfully it was just enough to make boot covers. They were super easy to make as they are essentially just a tube with elastic at the top to cinch it to your leg. 

I wore these with short boots that stopped just above my ankle but you could also wear them with tall boots and tuck the elastic into the top of boot. If I make them again, I’ll make them longer so that the top of the boot cover sits at the widest part of my calf. I found that when placed on the narrower part of the calf, the covers tended to slip down.

How to Make Fur Boot Covers

Supplies:
fur fabric
1/2 inch elastic
thread

Instructions

Step 1: Measure the circumference of your leg at the point where you want the top of the boot cover to sit. (Remember they’ll stay on better at or above the thickest part of the calf.) To the circumference add seam allowance plus 1 to 2 inches of ease. Next measure how tall you want your boot covers. Add about .5 inch seam allowance to the height. Cut 2 pieces of fur the height by the circumference (plus the ease and seam allowance you calculated).

Step 2: With right sides together, stitch boot cover side seam. Cut 2 pieces of elastic the circumference of your leg plus .5 inch. Overlap ends of elastic .5 inch and stitch together. Try on and make sure that the elastic is tight enough to stay up comfortably. Adjust if necessary.

Step 3: Mark quarter points of elastic and top of boot cover. Pin elastic to right side of boot cover overlapping about 3/8 inch and matching quarter points. Using a zig zag stitch, stitch boot cover to elastic, stretching elastic to fit cover (see above).

For additional tips and suggested measurements, check out this tutorial on Instructables. 

To wear the boot covers, insert foot through elastic opening and pull onto leg. Turn elastic to wrong side, tucking it into the boot cover. These have been really fun to wear and most people think that I’m wearing furry boots. Make a bunch of these and you’ll have a whole new wardrobe of “boots”. As a bonus, the boot covers also keep your ankles warm which has me thinking I should add leg warmers to my wardrobe.

At the end of the year, it seems almost obligatory that one must look back and review what has happened over the last twelve months. On my computer, I keep folders of blog photos for each year. Inside each year is a folder of “Projects.” For each make, there is a separate folder. My count for 2015 is FIFTY projects. FIFTY! I do try to post one new DIY every week and some weeks there is more than one. I have so many ideas for things to make that it can be hard to slow down. So, the projects pile up. And trust me I haven’t shared everything I made this year. There were a lot of test garments for my two patterns the Lou Box Top and the Baseball Skirt that never made it to the blog. Plus a few gifts for others and loungewear for myself (pajama shorts were a necessity this summer). If I were to actually count how many things I made it’s probably over sixty, maybe seventy. 

Today I thought it would be fun to share the most and least worn garments from the last year plus some plans for 2016. Let's start off with the winners. My top nine most worn and/or loved garments are: (1) Vogue V9075 Jumpsuit (2) Polka Dot Ella Tank  (3) Teal Knit Racerback Dress  (4) Cap Sleeve Nettie Bodysuit  (5) Linen Inari Dress  (6) Retro Crossback Swimsuit  (7) Knit Jumpsuit McCall's M7099  (8) Kangaroo Pocket Linden Sweatshirt  (9) Spring Floral Tania Culottes

Over my twenty years (!!!) of sewing, I have become much better at selecting the fabric and pattern to match my wardrobe. When I think back to my early days of sewing, I had about a 50% success rate (maybe less!). There were so many things I made that were just unwearable. I was gaga for pretty prints (hello quilting cotton!) and while it’s so pretty as eye candy, it’s hard to incorporate into a grown up wardrobe. These days I’m very lucky to live in Los Angeles and have access to the amazing fabric district here. That combined with a vastly improved skill set, I now have a much better success rate with my sewing projects.

And on the other end of the spectrum, I thought I’d share nine great makes that have been worn only once or (horror!) never. (1) Chambray Culottes  (2) Teal Nettie Dress  (3) Blue Plaid Linden  (4) Nascha Mini Skirt  (5) Black Nettie Bodysuit  (6) Vegan Leather Leggings  (7) Lined Lou Box Top  (8) Polka Dot Crescent Blouse  (9) Curved Hem Chambray Skirt

These garments were mostly a success but didn’t make it into heavy rotation because the fabric or fit was off or I somehow feel a little uncomfortable wearing them. A few of these are patterns I've had a lot of success with and are even featured in the top nine but the fabric just doesn't work. So, they've gone unworn. Earlier this year I did a big closet clean out (using the Konmari method of course) and got rid of a lot of things that I didn't wear or no longer fit. I'll give these pieces a little while longer but if they're still unworn they might make it into the goodwill pile.

2015 was a pretty big year for me. I launched my first pdf sewing pattern, the Lou Box Top. I’ve loved seeing what everyone has made from it. Thank you all so much for the support. I also ventured into the world of swimsuit sewing and it was much less scary than I had anticipated. My first swimsuit was a vintage cross back one piece that I took to Hawaii in March. Later in the year I made a two-piece from Seamwork magazine and while I haven’t taken it in the pool yet I’m very pleased with how it turned out. Finding some success with swimsuits has inspired me to try some other new/scary things like bras and jeans.

For 2016, I want to continue to build my handmade wardrobe with items that are wearable and stretch my skills. I'd like to try some new things and hopefully release some new patterns too. Here are the top 9 patterns on my list to make this year. (By the way, there are about 25 other new patterns I want to sew too. Oh yeah, and some patterns that I want to make again. So much to do. So little time.) 

So here's my #2016MakeNine: (1) Sew Over It Ultimate Shift Dress  (2) Grainline Studio Scout Tee  (3) Birkin Flares by Baste & Gather (4) Rushcutter Dress by In the Fold  (5) Cosmic Sweater by WATG  (6) Halifax Hoodie by Hey June  (7) Southport Dress by True Bias  (8) Moji Pants by Seamwork  (9) Soma Swimsuit by Papercut Patterns

What do you have planned for your 2016 sewing adventures? Anything new and wild that you'd like to try?

Happy New Year sewists! Today, I have my Christmas dress to share with you. I know it’s not officially the holiday season but I hope I’ll be able to wear it throughout the year. This dress has the two things one must have in a Christmas dress – a little bit bling/shine and enough stretch to accommodate all the eats (bonus if you can take an after dinner nap in it!).

Early in December, I decided to make myself some fancy holiday things. I was working towards a chalet themed party and inspired by all the sequins I had been seeing. So, I headed downtown and after a bit of searching found the perfect faux fur and the perfect sequins at a little shop on Maple. I bought 2 yards of stretch sequin fabric. I think it was about $10 a yard but I can’t remember for sure. (In case you missed it, you can read about what I did with the fur here and here.) With the sequins, I planned to make a Mesa dress.

Next I went to the Michael Levine bulk store across the street just to see what I could find. I was hoping for a buff colored stretch lining that would work with the sequins and I actually found it! Then I spotted a beige knit with flecks of gold and decided I should buy some of that too, as a back up plan to the sequin dress. The sequin dress is in fact almost done but I decided to put it on hold for a couple of reasons. First, I want to remove the sequins from the inside part of the hem and that is taking forever to do. Second, I decided that sequins plus fur was just too much for the party.

Ok, so how did we get to this dress? Well, I think it was one of those late night inspiration impulses or something. I just had to have something with sequins and little epaulets seemed the way to get there quickly. I had made a muslin of the Mesa dress and perfected the fit for the sequin dress so I knew it would be a quick sew.

I made a few changes to the fit of the Mesa. I cut a medium size but tapered to a small on the side seams of the back. My muslin was too wide at the neck opening so I extended the neckline 1.75 inches at the shoulder, making the neck opening smaller. I also raised the front neckline .5 inch and the back neckline 3/8 inch. Because I’m tall (5’11”), I added 1.5 inches to the length. Finally, I skipped the side vents and made a straight hem. For reference, my measurements are roughly 38-29-39, which fits the Medium size from the pattern size guide.

To make the shoulder details, I overlapped the front and back of the pattern at the shoulders and then traced a shape. I added seam allowance and cut out two from the sequin fabric. I sewed up the dress and then hand stitched the shoulder pieces to the dress, removing sequins in the corners of the seam allowance to reduce bulk. I found that removing the sequins along the entire seam allowance just took too much time.

I’m really happy with how this dress turned out. I love the fit and it’s a style I’d wear everyday. Hopefully the sequins won’t scare me off of that. In fact, I’ve already made another everyday version that I’m sure will be getting a lot of wear. This is a great basic pattern and in my mind the knit equivalent of the Inari Tee dress. Do you have a go-to knit dress pattern? Please share in the comments.

I keep looking in my closet for a dress to wear and find myself hating everything. Everything!! I addressed the issue somewhat with my fall sewing plans with my two versions of the Inari Tee Dress but I’m still not satisfied. I’d like to be able to open my closet, see a row of options and want to wear all of them right now.

There are a few requirements for the perfect everyday dress. First the dress needs to fit my body. Last year I got rid of a lot of the dresses that no longer fit as well as they used to (I lost some weight over the last few years which means a lot of my handmade things became too big). Second, I need to feel comfortable wearing it. It shouldn’t be too flashy or too revealing and it needs to play well with the other things in my wardrobe.

Here are the top 5 dress patterns that I plan on adding to my wardrobe this year. I've made a few of them and a couple I've yet to try. Read on for all the details!

Five Classic Dress Sewing Patterns

1. Inari Tee Dress by Named Clothing

I started my quest for more dresses a couple of months ago and so far it’s going pretty well. First up was the Inari Tee Dress, a pullover cocoon style dress with short sleeves. It’s really easy to make and super easy to wear. Check out my versions here and here.

2. Mesa Dress by Seamwork

The Mesa Dress from Seamwork Magazine is my new favorite knit dress. I made a muslin and perfected the fit (seriously guys don’t skip this step, you won't regret it). Now I have a pattern that I’m totally in love with. I shared one version of the Mesa last week and will have another one to share later this week.

3. Alder Shirtdress by Grainline Studio

I've made a version of the Alder Shirtdress and I love it but I need to perfect the sizing (FBA and lengthen). This is a classic design and I'm really looking forward to making it part of my wardrobe.

4. Ultimate Shift Dress by Sew Over It

I have not tried this one yet but I love the clean simple design. So classic! It's also the kind of dress that allows for a big lunch but still looks polished with the set-in sleeves.

5. Darling Ranges by Megan Nielsen

This pattern has been on my to-sew list for a while. I've loved all of her patterns that I've tried and I'm sure this one will be no different.

And now for the runners up! There are so many great patterns out there and I want to make them all. 1. Adelaide by Seamwork (wearable muslin here), 2. Scout Tee by Grainline Studio (lengthened into a dress!) 3. Simplicity 1366 (again a top lengthened into a dress!), 4. Vogue V9075 (my jumpsuit version here), 5. Butterick B6182, 6. Gallery Tunic by Oliver & S, 7. Phoebe by Colette and 8. Bettine by Tilly & the Buttons.

Please share your favorite dress patterns in the comments. I'd love to hear what works for you.

Earlier this week, I shared my quest for dresses and the sewing patterns that are helping on the journey. I must say, so far it’s going quite well. Today I have my second version of the Mesa Dress by Seamwork/Colette Patterns (well actually my fourth version if you count a muslin and an unfinished version!). It’s totally my new favorite and I can’t wait to make it a part of my everyday wardrobe.

I love the basic shape of this dress. The simple silhouette is easy to wear and the knit fabric is both comfortable and flattering. Also, it has sleeves! Have you noticed that it can be hard to find a pattern with sleeves sometimes? I used the same fit adjustments as for the Sequin Shoulder version. You can find those details here.

I picked up the fabric from the Michael Levine Loft store in downtown LA. It’s a fun place to go (pay by the pound!) but you never know what you’ll find. You also don’t know the fiber content or origin of the fabric but it’s great for finding something on the cheap. This fabric is a thick knit fabric, kind of like a double knit. It’s actually very similar to the fabric I used for this Linden Sweatshirt. It’s great for this dress too because it’s not too thin (goodbye panty lines!).

The fabric was fairly easy to work with but because of thickness it was a little tricky to topstitch over the humps made at the seam lines. For finishing the hems, I used my conventional machine fitted with a twin needle and the walking foot. In the bobbin I used a wooly nylon (aka fluff thread). I really love this thread for topstitching knits for helping the twin needle stitching stay flat. 

I’m super happy with how this dress turned out. I think it will be a piece that I can wear all year round, with boots and tights in the colder months and then bare legs in the warmer ones. (Here I'm wearing these booties. I've pretty much worn them non-stop this winter. Surprisingly comfy despite the heel!) Have you tried out this pattern? Do you have a favorite everyday dress pattern?